End of walk

I’ve hiked enough for the time being; I wouldn’t wish to walk further even if time were available.  Some people have greater energy and enthusiasm; the ones who started in Le Puy and are continuing as far as Santiago (1,500 or so kilometers); the young woman who I encountered running along at 40+ kilometers per day; the older woman who has logged up 12,000 kilometers of solo-hiking in the last few years despite a rare illness that requires her to return to Amsterdam for a medical procedure every seven weeks.  For some of these modern parivrajakas, the trail is home.

During the remaining days of my adventure, I’m esconced at a friend’s house north of Logorño.  A comfy cabin nestled between fruit trees, completely off-grid, with electricity from the sun, water from the winter rains, a septic tank for sewage, internet via cellular – a quarter hour’s walk to the nearest tiny village which itself lacks shops or other amenities. Here alone and enjoying the peace of the Basque countryside.

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Walking in Spain

The Spanish part of this walk is quite different from the French.  The mix of ages, the smorgasbord of nationalities, the accommodations along the way.  There is a distinct character to the French walk.  In general, you book in advance, and arrive at around 15:00.  In the evening there is a common meal, which means that communications and stories are exchanged in a particular way.

On the Spanish side, you tend to leave and arrive earlier.  Bookings are not as necessary as the variety is larger.  Meetings and encounters are more haphazard.  Meals are eaten out or made in the albergue from ingredients bought in shops and supermarkets.

The French way is more to my liking, though each has its charm.  As for the countryside, France has the edge for its beauty. Spain is dryer, at this time of year, though the vistas are impressive so far.

My walk will continue as far as Logroño. It’s enough for now

 

Looking south over a wide landscape from a promontory along the way from Pamplona: a man is seen hiking against a background of fields and trees.

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Across the Pyrenees

Reached Roncesvalles now, which is just over the Pyrenees, in Spain. I will continue along this walk for another few days before going to see a friend in the Basque country. Met some really nice people in France, though most of the ones I got to know are finishing at the border.

A potok (horse) is seen grazing on grass upon a hillside.
The camino path on a misty, treed hillside, just after the pass from France to Spain.
Looking South across wooden hillsides half shrouded in cloud.
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